Facial acupuncture has become popular in recent years, and you don't have to look far online to find bold claims about it. I'd rather keep things calm and simply tell you what the treatment involves, how it tends to feel, what the small amount of research has looked at, and how to look after yourself afterwards.
What is facial acupuncture?
Very fine, sterile needles are placed in the skin of the face, and often in the head and neck as well. It's a cosmetic treatment rather than a medical one, and many people choose it because they enjoy the experience of a quiet, focused hour.
I'm a member of the British Acupuncture Council (BAcC). Before any needles go in, I'll talk with you about your health, any medication you take and what you're hoping for, so that your expectations are realistic from the start.
How is it thought to work?
Nobody can say for certain. One Korean pilot study started from the idea (the hypothesis) that needling the muscles of the face might affect "resting mimetic muscle tone", meaning the muscles we use for facial expressions. That's a theory being tested, not an established fact.
In Chinese medicine, treating the face is traditionally part of caring for the whole person rather than looking at the face in isolation. That's a traditional view, and I offer it as one.
What does the research say?
The study people mention most is Yun and colleagues' 2013 pilot, published in Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine. Before reading anything into it, have a look at its limits.
- Of 50 women screened, 28 were eligible and 27 completed treatment.
- All were aged 40 to 59 and had five sessions over three weeks.
- It was "open-label" and "single-arm", which means there was no comparison group and everyone knew they were being treated.
The researchers reported a measurable change in facial elasticity on their chosen scale. They were also clear that "further large-scale trials with a controlled design and objective measurements are needed." With no control group and fewer than 30 people, a study like this can't tell us whether the treatment itself caused the change. So I don't promise any particular result, and I'd be wary of anyone who does.
What happens during a session?
You'll lie comfortably on a treatment couch with your face clean and free of make-up. I'll place a number of very fine needles and leave you to rest for a while before taking them out. Depending on the approach, needles are sometimes in for just a second or two, and sometimes left in for a longer rest.
How does it feel?
Acupuncture needles are so fine that most people don't feel them going in. As a needle is adjusted, it's normal to feel a mild tingle or dull ache. The face can be a little more sensitive than other areas, so some points may feel sharper for a moment. Tell me at any time if something feels uncomfortable. Many people find the whole session deeply relaxing.
Is it safe?
From a properly trained practitioner, acupuncture is generally low risk, but it isn't risk-free. In the Yun study, the most common side effect was mild bruising where the needles had been. A bruise on the face shows more than one elsewhere, so it's sensible not to book the day before a big event.
Acupuncture may not be safe for you if you take blood-thinning medicine, are at increased risk of bleeding, or have a skin condition or skin infection. Please mention any of these. Let me know, too, if you're pregnant or have a pacemaker or a metal allergy, so I can talk it through with you.
Aftercare
- Keep it simple. If you can, give your skin a rest from heavy make-up for the rest of the day.
- Take it easy. Some people feel tired or a little dizzy after acupuncture. If that's you, don't drive until you feel well again.
- Bruises. A small bruise usually fades on its own. If one is large, painful or getting worse, contact me or your GP.
- Anything unexpected. Get in touch if you notice redness, swelling or heat that doesn't settle.
Is facial acupuncture right for you?
If you'd like a calm, hands-on treatment and you're comfortable knowing that I can't promise results, it may be worth a try. If you're hoping for a guaranteed change in how you look, it's better to know now that the evidence doesn't support that kind of promise.
You can read more about how I approach it on my facial acupuncture page.